Summertime Catalan festivals

Human pyramids & dancing with ‘devils’

Posted 8/6/20

Chris Gorman is a Lexington native and has been living in Barcelona, Spain, for the past 7 years.

The Spanish love their summers.

Warm weather offers the chance to be outside and enjoy long …

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Summertime Catalan festivals

Human pyramids & dancing with ‘devils’

Posted

Chris Gorman is a Lexington native and has been living in Barcelona, Spain, for the past 7 years.

The Spanish love their summers.

Warm weather offers the chance to be outside and enjoy long days in the Mediterranean sunshine.

Barcelona comes alive with the start of summer and a celebration called St. Joan on the night of June 23, the shortest night of the year. St. Joan is often described by Catalans as the Nit del Foc - meaning the Night of Fire.

Citizens flock to the beaches, build bonfires and shoot fireworks until the sun comes up. Each year I laugh to myself and think - this would never fly in the US.

Someone would get hurt, then someone would sue the city, then that would be the end if it.

Summer neighborhood festivals begin in mid July and run until mid September when kids go back to school. Festas major (Catalan) or major festivals start in 1 Barcelona neighborhood and last for 1 week.

The festivals rotate each week in a different neighborhood around Barcelona ending with the biggest festival in the center of the city called La Mercé, which honors the patron saint of Barcelona.

Human pyramids

Each festival usually includes an exhibition by the Castells, a group of local Catalans that build human towers with their bodies. The group starts with a base of strong men and women and then slowly other members climb on top of them to form a tower.

This tower can go as high as 5 people in the air on different levels and is topped with a fearless small child which signals the end of the performance.

This can be quite nerve wracking to watch, but they do it in a safe and trained manner.

Dancing with devils

Another highlight is seeing Correfoc. Correfoc or “fire run” is a group of individuals dressed as devils who light fireworks and dance through the streets of spectators. Spectators are advised to wear protective clothing to shield you from possible burns.

The goal is to get as close to the devils and dance with the fire as long as you can. Other spectators can watch from safe distances rapidly retreating when necessary.

It’s 1 of the craziest things I have ever seen. Not only is it unsafe, but unreal to watch. The local spectators seem to have no fear as they approach and dance with the devils during their firework showers.

Again you would never see this in the US. Fire marshals would have heart attacks.

I observe and take lots of great photos from afar.

Soapbox derby

Finally, my personal favorite is the soapbox derby race in my adopted neighborhood of Poble Sec.

Entrants young and old build “cars” and dress up in crazy outfits in teams of 2 or 4 members.

The race begins at the highest point on the street and descends downhill. Racers get clobbered by citizens throwing water balloons, draft beer, water and white flour.

The car that doesn’t wreck at the end of the finish line wins!

It’s good messy fun on a Spanish summer afternoon.

Next: family visits and final reflections

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