The more ambient temperatures along with the availability of local oysters has often meant this dish was often on the table for lunch or dinner come autumn.

This is a meal that can be elegant and formal or rustic and relaxed. It lends itself to both with ease.

We would use oysters that were gathered fresh the same day from just a few blocks away. I clearly recall them being brought up in large, old baskets, the shells causing the baskets to sag under their weight. Brackish water would slowly drip through the slats leaving a trail in the damp sand. The autumn air was wet and heavy. The taste of salt was in the air, coating our skin, hair and clothing with a cool and cloying dampness particular to fall.

The marsh edge would be filled with shore birds of all sorts, dotting the landscape with their beauty. All the world seemed to know it was time to harvest. Everyone was a welcome guest at Mother Nature’s table.

The many years of harvesting oysters provided nacreous paths of shells that defined much of my childhood. Oyster shell paths signal home for me. So much so that I now have them at our home in Lexington. Just a glance takes me right back to that Lowcountry upbringing and a life that resonates with me still.

This recipe for oyster stew is very simple but very good. My great grandmother would not eat oysters, but she would have the broth. She wanted it served to her in a bouillon bowl with a bouillon spoon; her Victorian sensibilities thought this was normal!

Charleston Local Oyster Stew

Serves 8, double or triple if you love oysters.

Use 24 large, fresh oysters, removed from shells, rinsed and set aside in a colander.

Melt one stick of salted butter in a large heavy stick pot.

Add one tsp black pepper.

Add one tsp sea salt.

Melt the butter (try not to brown it). Turn off the heat and take the pot off the burner.

Add the oysters, tossing them around for a minute or so.

Return to the burner on low.

Pour in 3 cups of heavy cream and two cups of milk.

Stir gently to bathe the oysters in the warming broth.

Allow the stew to warm through by gradually increasing the heat until heavy.

Steam rolls from the pot. Cook for about 3 minutes, put the lid back on top, remove from heat and let the pot sit for about 5 minutes. DO NOT OVERCOOK.

We would place this in a silver soup tureen bordered by cleaned, empty oyster shells.

It would be served with a silver ladle into Limoges porcelain soup plates.

We would also enjoy it in a more casual manner from deep soup bowls.

It was delicious no matter how it was served.

Make your own croutons by cubing and toasting leftover french bread in your oven.

Cube the bread, bathe in melted butter, toss with herbs of your choosing; bake until crunchy. Serve warm.

Simple foods are so often the very best; memories are made when you least expect them.